Surfing is the act of someone paddling in the ocean, catching a wave on a surfboard, standing up, and riding the entire length of this giant white cap. Some people say it's the best feeling anyone can have and it always has been. The recreation of surfing has existed since the mid-18th century. Today, it is no longer just a hobby for some people, but also a professional extreme sport. Originating in Hawaii in the mid-1800s, surfing has remained a way of life for most Hawaiians. Everyone from men to women, royalty to commoners participated in this pastime. The first surfboards were made of solid wood, measuring eight to ten feet long, two feet wide, three inches thick, and weighing about 100 pounds. (Encyclopedia Britannica: History of Surfing). Early boards did not have fins on the rear underside of the board, making it very difficult to steer the board. Most people simply turned their boards toward the shore and made no attempt to maneuver along the wave wall. However, it wasn't all fun and games for the people of Hawaii. According to The Geographical Adventures of Captain Cook, Captain James Cook, a British explorer, on his third expedition to find a northwest passage through Europe and Asia through North America, fell by mistake on the Sandwich Islands, or Hawaii, in 1778. He remained there until he was killed by natives in 1779, when he attempted to kidnap the Hawaiian chief in order to force the people to return a stolen boat. However, during his time on the islands he observed people surfing and wrote in one of his many exploration journals about a man he had observed. In the passage he writes: "I could not help but conclude that this man was having the most supreme pleasure as he was driven so quickly and so gently by...... middle of paper ......cyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Internet. November 11, 2011.."surfing." Encyclopedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. November 11, 2011.."surfing." Encyclopedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. November 11, 2011.."surfing." Encyclopedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. November 11, 2011.."surfing." Encyclopedia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online School Edition. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc., 2011. Web. November 11. 2011..